Table of Contents
Foreword xi
Introduction xv
If Silence Is the Cost of Great Ramen, So Be It Nina Li Coomes 1
From The Atlantic
The Limits of the Lunchbox Moment Jaya Saxena 5
From Eater
Starving Toward Deliverance Julia Sonenshein 14
From Catapult
The Man Who Didn't Invent Flamin' Hot Cheetos Sam Dean 24
From Los Angeles Times
The Gatekeepers Who Get to Decide What Food Is "Disgusting" Jiayang Fan 39
From The New Yorker
Fruits of Empire Willa Glickman 55
From The New York Review of Books
Chronicles of a Bubble-Tea Addict Jiayang Fan 63
From The New Yorker
Let Them Eat Fakes Ligaya Mishan 71
From The New York Times Style Magazine
The Queen of Delicacies Shane Mitchell 78
From The Bitter Southerner
Ghost Acres: Tulare Lake and the Past Future of Food Tom Finger 95
From Pipe Wrench
Revolt of the Delivery Workers Josh Dzieza 109
From New York Magazine
How Vietnamese Americans Made San Jose America's Tofu Capital Adesh Thapliyal 128
From KQED
I Ate Like a Boy to Avoid Being a Queer Man Logan Scherer 135
From Bon Appétit
The Humble Beginnings of Today's Culinary Delicacies Ligaya Mishan 138
From The New York Times Style Magazine
After a Century of Dispossession, Black Farmers Are Fighting to Get Back to the Land Tom Philpott 146
From Mother Jones
Innovation and the Incinerated Tongue: Notes on Hot Chicken, Race, and Culinary Crossover Cynthia R. Greenlee 157
From The Counter
A Year of Cooking with My Mother Eric Kim 165
From The New York Times
Other People's Kitchens Bryan Washington 169
From The Cut
Margaritaville and the Myth of American Leisure Jaya Saxena 174
From Eater
"It's Hospital Soigné" Chris Crowley 184
From Grub Street
The Wild and Irresistibly Saucy Tale of the Curry Con Man Mayukh Sen 188
From Vox
Tokyo Convenience Store Chicken Gizzards Saved My Life Andrew Keh 198
From The New York Times
I Tasted Honda's Spicy Rodent-Repelling Tape Liz Cook 202
From Haterade
The Grapefruit Spoon Makes Life Easier Rachel Levin 206
From Eater
I Was a Lifelong Vegetarian. I Decided to Taste What I Was Missing Rajesh Parameswaran 209
From Bon Appétit
In My Childhood Kitchen, I Learned Both Fear and Love Hannah Selinger 216
From Bon Appétit
I Recommend Eating Chips Sam Anderson 220
From The New York Times Magazine
Contributors' Notes 225
Other Distinguished Food Writing of 2021 229