Valley of the Fallen: The (N)ever Changing Face of General Franco's Monument

Perhaps the most notorious symbolic and material expression of the bitter "memory wars" that have gripped Spain in recent years is a monument which remains one of the country's most popular tourist sites, El Valle de los Caídos (The Valley of the Fallen). It was erected by the Franco regime in the aftermath of the civil war "to defy time and oblivion" and commemorate Franco's victory. It also became the resting place of the dictator himself after 1975, and a site of nostalgic homage for tho...